Recipe: Braised onion ragù

From Meryl Feinstein's 'Pasta Every Day'

Braised Onion Ragù

SERVES 4, enough for 22 ounces fresh pasta or 16 ounces dried pasta

Active time: 25 minutes

Total time: 2 to 2½ hours



PAIR IT WITH

Cappelletti (168) • "Classic" Ravioli (152) • Garganelli (142) • Pappardelle (131) • Potato Gnocchi (67) • Ricotta Gnocchi (60) • Tagliatelle (131) • Tortelloni (172)

This sauce is loosely inspired by a Bolognese dish called il friggione, a flavorful combination of slow-cooked onions and tomatoes. You'll find il friggione served with meat, as a side dish, and as an antipasto-but, of course, it works well with pasta, too. Like most oniony dishes, the key to this one is time: Traditionally, the onions are marinated in sugar for a couple of hours before being cooked down for many more. This version is entirely untraditional, but the jammy, tomatoey essence is there, and it pairs particularly well with the roasted garlic and rosemary filling on page 222.

6 tablespoons (85 grams) unsalted butter, divided

2¼ pounds (1 kg; about 4 medium) yellow onions, thinly sliced into half moons

Kosher salt

3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

¼ cup (60 grams) tomato paste ½ cup (120 ml) dry white wine like Pinot Grigio

A pinch of ground cloves

2 bay leaves

3 cups (720 ml) low-sodium vegetable or chicken stock, plus more as needed

Freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon high-quality balsamic vinegar or balsamic reduction (page 356)

Finely grated Parmigiano Reggiano and fresh thyme, for serving

MAKE IT VEGAN: Swap the butter for a dairy-free alternative, skip the Parmigiano.

1. In a Dutch oven or large, heavy-bottomed sauté pan, melt 4 tablespoons of the butter over medium heat. Add the onions, season with salt, and stir to coat. Cook until the onions are soft but not browned, stirring occasionally, 5 to 10 minutes.

2. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, 1 minute. Stir in the tomato paste and cook until caramelized, 1 to 2 minutes. Pour in the wine and simmer for 2 to 3 minutes, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Add a small pinch of cloves, the bay leaves, and the stock. Bring to a simmer, then reduce to a low bubble. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is absorbed and the mixture is jammy, 1½ to 2 hours. If needed, stir in additional stock, ½ cup (120 ml) at a time, to prevent burning. Remove and discard the bay leaves. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

3. Stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons butter and the balsamic. Turn off the heat.

4. TO SERVE Cook your pasta of choice to your liking. While the pasta cooks, return the onions to medium heat. Stir in a little pasta cooking water until saucy. Transfer the pasta directly to the sauce (if you need to drain it first, reserve a little extra cooking water in case you need it) and cook, tossing frequently, until well coated, 1 to 2 minutes.

5. Divide the pasta among bowls and serve with Parmigiano-Reggiano and a scattering of fresh thyme.