Last year, in the 1.0 version of this newsletter that I unceremoniously deleted from the interwebz, I shared a recipe for a sourdough pajeon, or Korean scallion pancake. It was very popular at the time, and many people have asked me to republish it since then. In the interim, two important things have happened.
this is fantastic! Will try this update. I have been making them several times a weeks since your post last year. And like you, I use any vegetables on hand (my favorites are beet stems, mushroom's, or grated carrots. I also really like doing it with left over rice).
Culturally uncomfortable? I have no problem with it. For starters, Koreans make potato pancakes (gamjajeon) too, though they tend not to use a batter, but instead rely on the starch from the potatoes (usually finely chopped or grated), along with a little extra starch sometimes.
And in any case, I think one should feel fine doing whatever one wants in the privacy of one's own kitchen; cultural appropriation is only a concern when one is presenting something to the world with some claim of authority. Being inspired to remix techniques and flavors is how innovation happens, and it has happened whenever two or more cultures meet up.
What matters is how one presents the results to the world. Do you give credit to your sources and make it clear that you did the research? Or do you claim the thing as your own idea, or present such a bastardized version that it's obvious you have only a passing understanding of the culture you are borrowing (stealing) from?
Finally, I just think pancakes are such a universal idea that they belong to everyone. Koreans are hardly the only people to make savory pancakes out of grated vegetables, though I love how they have made an art of it.
Thanks, Andrew. This added context is helpful. I'm not sure what the source of my discomfort was. Just imagining two ways to use discard for something like pajeon and something like latke was helpful for me.
I made this twice. Once with extra scallions and kimchi. Second with scallions and seafood mix, haemul pajeon. I served it to other Koreans on a rainy day no less. It was a big hit. Thanks for an inspired recipe.
Made this multiple times ever since. Made for my Korean family members. Home run each time. I add more WAY more scallions than appropriate plus leeks, Serranos and seafood. I add Korean chili threads in the center. It’s gorgeous, perfect party food. I am very thankful for this recipe. Thanks Andrew.
Cindy - so happy to hear that. Everything I know about Korean pancakes I learned from Beverly Kim and Nanam Myszka, two talented chefs who showed me the pajeon way.
I made this using grated carrot, turnip, and onion and it’s delicious but no rise and very gummy. I’ve got a lot of these in my future so I’ll keep working on it. Would baking soda lighten it up and allow it to cook through? Could I mix it the night before to allow some rising time?
Thank you for the recipe. Delicious with leftover apple compote. Also delicious out of the pan with no condiment at all.
Can't wait to try these out, and I loved the article from Dr. Chan. Very well done.
Just made this, was really good! I skimped on the oil and didn’t get as crispy of a pancake... lesson learned. Still tasty!
Thanks for this recipe.. I made mine with arrowroot starch cause that’s what I had, and sweet potato and onions. And it was delicious.
this is fantastic! Will try this update. I have been making them several times a weeks since your post last year. And like you, I use any vegetables on hand (my favorites are beet stems, mushroom's, or grated carrots. I also really like doing it with left over rice).
Recipe worked out very well! I felt uncomfortable to make it into a latke though. What’s your take on that sort of adaptation?
Culturally uncomfortable? I have no problem with it. For starters, Koreans make potato pancakes (gamjajeon) too, though they tend not to use a batter, but instead rely on the starch from the potatoes (usually finely chopped or grated), along with a little extra starch sometimes.
And in any case, I think one should feel fine doing whatever one wants in the privacy of one's own kitchen; cultural appropriation is only a concern when one is presenting something to the world with some claim of authority. Being inspired to remix techniques and flavors is how innovation happens, and it has happened whenever two or more cultures meet up.
What matters is how one presents the results to the world. Do you give credit to your sources and make it clear that you did the research? Or do you claim the thing as your own idea, or present such a bastardized version that it's obvious you have only a passing understanding of the culture you are borrowing (stealing) from?
I'd highly recommend you watch Andrea Nguyen's new History.com segment about her family's migration to the US. Not only is it a wonderful story, it gets into just these sorts of questions: https://www.vietworldkitchen.com/blog/2021/03/the-families-that-fed-america-vietnam.html
Finally, I just think pancakes are such a universal idea that they belong to everyone. Koreans are hardly the only people to make savory pancakes out of grated vegetables, though I love how they have made an art of it.
Thanks, Andrew. This added context is helpful. I'm not sure what the source of my discomfort was. Just imagining two ways to use discard for something like pajeon and something like latke was helpful for me.
The recipe calls for 1 c starter. How much is that in grams?
It varies, but I'm now using 240g as an average.
I made this twice. Once with extra scallions and kimchi. Second with scallions and seafood mix, haemul pajeon. I served it to other Koreans on a rainy day no less. It was a big hit. Thanks for an inspired recipe.
Made this multiple times ever since. Made for my Korean family members. Home run each time. I add more WAY more scallions than appropriate plus leeks, Serranos and seafood. I add Korean chili threads in the center. It’s gorgeous, perfect party food. I am very thankful for this recipe. Thanks Andrew.
Cindy - so happy to hear that. Everything I know about Korean pancakes I learned from Beverly Kim and Nanam Myszka, two talented chefs who showed me the pajeon way.
I made this using grated carrot, turnip, and onion and it’s delicious but no rise and very gummy. I’ve got a lot of these in my future so I’ll keep working on it. Would baking soda lighten it up and allow it to cook through? Could I mix it the night before to allow some rising time?
Thank you for the recipe. Delicious with leftover apple compote. Also delicious out of the pan with no condiment at all.